Sardinia, the second-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, is a gem for adventure seekers. Renowned for its beautiful beaches and historical landmarks, it’s also a world-class destination for rock climbing. With over 4000 climbing routes spread across the island, Sardinia offers a diverse range of climbing experiences to cater to climbers of all skill levels. Let’s explore some of the best climbing areas in Sardinia and the unique adventures they offer.
Table of Contents
- Climbing in Cala Gonone
- Climbing in Baunei & Ogliastra
- Climbing in Isili
- Climbing in Supramonte
- Climbing in Domusnovas
- Climbing the Rock Needle in Cala Goloritze
- Climbing Guides And Gear In Sardinia
- Best Time to Climb in Sardinia
- The Climbing Experience10.Conclusion: Why Choose Sardinia for Climbing?
Climbing in Cala Gonone
Cala Gonone, a seaside town located on the central-east region of Sardinia, offers climbers an exciting blend of coastal and mountainous landscapes. The town is famous for the Bue Marino caves and the turquoise waters of the Cala Fuili beach. With numerous climbing spots, Cala Gonone is a must-visit for anyone interested in climbing in Sardinia.
Cala Fuili Beach
The Cala Fuili beach is a fantastic spot for climbing, with a limestone bluff that offers 5.8 to 5.10 grade routes. The Spigolo Fuili route, in particular, is recommended. This route provides a challenging yet enjoyable climb, with sturdy limestone plates and small cracks guiding your path.
Codula Fuili Canyon
Cala Gonone also offers the Codula Fuili canyon for climbers seeking a more challenging experience. With various routes and pitches to explore, this canyon is an excellent starting point for beginners. Plus, the absence of running water and the consistent sea breeze make for a comfortable climbing environment.
Biddiriscottai and La Poltrona
Other notable climbing spots in Cala Gonone include the Biddiriscottai, a seaside cliff and cave with a variety of routes, and La Poltrona, a 500-foot amphitheater of slabs with over 80 climbing routes.
Climbing in Baunei & Ogliastra
Baunei, a village located close to the sea, is another great spot for climbing in Sardinia. With 11 sport-climbing sectors and several multi-pitches, Baunei is a dream come true for every climber.
Punta Giradili
Punta Giradili is a must-visit crag in Baunei. With the longest multi-pitches on Sardinia, Punta Giradili offers a thrilling climbing experience. The crag has routes going up to 15 multi-pitches, and you can approach it from the top or the bottom.
Jerzu
Jerzu, another main cragging area in Baunei, is one of the most famous climbing areas in Sardinia. Located high in the mountains, Jerzu offers approximately 400 to 500 sport climbs. The routes here are mostly technical and are suitable for intermediate-level climbers.
Ulassai
The Canyon, or Ulassai, is another excellent climbing spot in Baunei. Mainly shady, Ulassai is perfect for climbers looking for a break from the heat. The canyon offers over 120 pitches with grades ranging from 5.6 to 5.14c.
Climbing in Isili
Isili, located slightly south in the center of Sardinia, is an inland climbing hub known for its gravity-defying overhangs. With 13 sectors and hundreds of routes for climbers of all skill levels, Isili is a must-visit for anyone keen on climbing in Sardinia.
Pietra Filosofale
The Pietra Filosofale is the easiest to climb in Isili. On the other hand, the Cervo Spaziale crag is one of Sardinia’s busiest crags, offering a range of extreme routes for experienced climbers.
Climbing in Supramonte
Supramonte, located near Cala Gonone on the North-East of Sardinia, offers cliffs that shoot up to 1,000 feet high! The most notable climbs here are on Monte Oddeu and Gola di Gorrupu.
Hotel Supramonte
Don’t let the name fool you! It’s not a hotel, The Hotel Supramonte, located in the Gorropu canyon, is actually a challenging climb stacked with hard pitches. This limestone cliff offers a complicated, demanding, and gruelling climb that climbers around the globe aim to conquer.
Monte Oddeu
Monte Oddeu, another crag in Supramonte, offers various multi-pitch climbs around 200 meters long. The routes here range from 5.10a to 5.11 c/d grade, offering both fun sport routes and classic routes for climbers.
Climbing in Domusnovas
Domusnovas, located in the south of Sardinia, offers over 500 bolted routes that cover all angles of the mountain. With 33 sectors around the Grotto of San Giovanni, Domusnovas is a memorable destination for climbing in Sardinia.
Punta Pilocca and Il Muro dei Folletti
Punta Pilocca, located in Domusnovas, is a long south-facing crag that offers 120 pitches. The crag is ideal for beginners, with 5.6 grade slabs. Il Muro dei Folletti, a new sector in Domusnovas, is another exciting climbing spot to explore.
Climbing the Rock Needle in Cala Goloritze
Cala Goloritze, located near Baunei, is home to the iconic rock needle known as Aguglia or Punta Caroddi. Standing 140 meters high with 10 multi-pitches, this rock needle offers a unique climbing experience in Sardinia.
Climbing Guides And Gear In Sardinia
For a successful climbing trip in Sardinia, it’s crucial to have the right guides and gear. Marco Bigatti, the only certified climbing/alpine guide on the island, offers climbing classes for all skill levels. There are also numerous climbing gear stores across the island, with Stile Alpino and Outdoor Sport being notable options.
Best Time to Climb in Sardinia
The best time for climbing in Sardinia is during the fall and spring seasons. The weather during these periods is warm and pleasant, making it ideal for outdoor activities. The summer can be very hot, and the winter can be quite windy, making climbing during these seasons less enjoyable.
The Climbing Experience
Climbing in Sardinia offers a unique experience. The thrill of scaling the island’s cliffs, coupled with the breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea, makes for an unforgettable adventure. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, Sardinia has something to offer you.
Why Choose Sardinia for Climbing?
Sardinia is a paradise for climbers, offering a diverse range of climbing spots and routes. From coastal cliffs to shaded canyons, there’s something for every climber on the island. With the right guides and gear, and at the right time of the year, climbing in Sardinia can be an incredible adventure.
Remember, Sardinia is not just about climbing. The island offers a rich cultural experience, beautiful beaches, and delicious food. So, whether you’re a climber or an adventurer, Sardinia should be on your list of places to visit.
Further Reading on Sports in Sardinia
